Oh my how time flies by. It looks like it was only yesterday when we launched our Desert Sun Collection and watched it proudly sell out throughout the summer. It seemed like you guys just loved it so much, to which we say honestly what’s not to love (it’s ok to be cocky every once in a while) and a humble thank you for the overwhelming support. These past few months have just been nuts in a lack of better words and an absolute blast for our small team here. But the days are starting to get shorter and with them hems are starting to get longer and so being the good Samaritan that we are, we thought why not dip our toes into something completely new and unexpected and get out of our comfort zone to give you that ultimate thing that will wrap you like a burrito and keep you warm throughout the winter. Yes, babes we’re taking about coats.
This year, we totally flipped the concept upside down and instead of starting with a perfectly curated Pinterest moodboard, we started thinking more along the lines of “Let’s see what we can find from fabrics first and build from there.” And that’s exactly what we did. Well that in combination with some leftover fabrics from previous collections, cause you know us, we need to use every scrap of fabric left. So read on, as we’re taking you with us on a journey of what went on in our heads as well as some intimate behind the scenes moments, as we unravel the process of how the Wild Wild West Collection came to be.
Picking The Fabrics & Colors
Rummaging through piles of scraps of fabrics, we came upon a gem, or as some would say a staple upon which we based our entire line. A black splattered cotton with dots of gray everywhere. Luckily for us, apparently the company that was supposed to use this wanted to have a black fabric and when the machine that dyed it went nutso on them, throwing up paint everywhere, they decided to throw it away. Well their loss, our gain, ain’t it? The fabric is so unique, that not one piece will be the same.
Finding this fabric pretty much set the tone for the entire collection. It was unique, raw and edgy. It kinda reminded me of the Rocky Mountains, you know, the song by John Denver. I started humming it and that’s when a lightbulb went on in my head and I immediately thought “Oh, Wild, Wild West it is” And so it began.
The Creative Process
Moodboards are obviously an integral part of everything we do. After all, we’re visual creatures and since we work in the creative industry, there’s no world in which they are not in the core of everything we do. Apart from traveling and movies, our Pinboards are the best source of inspiration and since traveling has been limited these past two years, Pinterest is our safe heaven. Me and Milena divide everything into different categories and together we decide on what the ultimate design will look like.
Speaking of the design, remember how we drew everything by hand on paper? It was kind of archaic, I know. Well, this time we decided to leave the paper behind and use something else to sketch the designs, but still kept the hand drawing technique, cause you know we’re all about that jam. Bastet Noir 2.0 baby.
Sketching the design for the Susie Dress, made to order and made to measure by Bastet Noir
The Production Process
After the designs were drawn, it was time to pay a visit to our head seamstress’s studio and get the wheels going to translate what we have imagined into IRL badass clothing item, you will love, wear and hopefully pass it down to your children. This collection was developed entirely by the skillful hands of Gordana Zhezhova and her team, with the exception of only one design developed by the lovely Luina and her daughter.
Making the patterns for the Mary Trench Coat
And so we got right on it, starting with working on the development of the patterns. Production starts by cutting fabrics and applying them directly to the model, where we check the proportions, drape and determine the contour. Some fabrics are different from what we expected. This is why we check them directly on the model to ensure that we get an accurate fit and flow.
Putting the base for the Mary Trench Coat
When we decide on the exact proportions and details we then proceed to create the patterns, followed by assembling the cutouts of fabric. Every design is different, so naturally that means every piece will take different amount of time to make. Simpler models with all their nooks and crannies this time around it took us between 6–8 hours to make and the more complicated ones took about 16+ hours to finish. If you’re interested in a particular design and how long it takes to make it, you’ll find all of these details under the description of every item.
The production for the entire collection of the 12 pieces took us 6 weeks and included pattern making, try ons, assembling the cutouts and applying hardware which oftentimes involves the use of hand making techniques.
The setting for the Wild Wild West Collection made to order and made to measure
This time, just like last time, we went for a pure white background for the product photos, as we wanted to keep the setup as simple and minimal as possible, so you can get a glimpse of every little detail. We wanted the photos to feel as close and personal as possible, as if you’re physically reaching and touching the fabrics with your bare hand.
Dani and Milena, the designing team
Well, there’s nothing new to say here, because we’re still the same team as before. So Elena was behind the camera, profesh and serious as always. I was behind my phone trying to capture the movement of the dresses for all the reels and videos we’ll have in the future and Milena as always was the life of the party, in charge for boosting morale but also styling the looks.
The Transparency — Pricing
Somewhere at the beginning of this year, we made a conscious decision to go fully transparent, which means every piece has a cost breakdown of the real expenses incurred for every item, as well as the exact number of hours it took us to make a piece. All of this information is included in the description box of every item.
The true cost of the Josephine Trench Coat by Bastet Noir x Pupi Milena
If you want to know more about the story behind the inspiration for the designs dive right in this Behind the Scenes: The Story Behind The Wild Wild West Collection article.